From Bourgogne to Alsace

Monday, July 15

Going up to Alsace, Jens wanted to show me the village of Aloxe-Corton, where he and his friend Peter had a combined lunch and wine tasting many years ago. The restaurant was run by Monsieur le Comte himself, and he even helped serve at the restaurant. We would love to do that, but it really isn’t possible as long as we have our very nervous four-legged friend, who simply cannot be left alone in the RV.

Jens kept talking about this really good domaine where he bought some good wines many years ago. He thought the name was Daniel Rion, and as we entered the village of Premeaux-Prissey, we came upon their sign, too late to turn, so made a U-turn a bit down the road. They weren’t open just yet, but we did not have to wait long. The nice lady who helped us unfortunately spoke very little English, and her French was très rapide, but those things just add to the charm of our vacation. We bought a box of reds, Nuits St Georges from 2017. Not the cheapest wine we have bought this trip, I might add...

On we went, by way of Gevrey-Chambertin and other quaint little villages. I’ll tell you, the most common words for me this trip are “oh” “ah” and “yum”. And I’m not referring to my cooking!

We had looked up two Domaines just outside Colmar, just 5 or 10 minutes apart, but the closest one had closed, so we landed at Domaine Joseph Schaffar, which was a lucky stroke. Since we were the first RV to arrive, we got the best location, which is just 2 meters from the vines, overlooking the mountains. The proprietor turned out to be in our age or maybe a bit older, and he led us through a good wine tasting. At the end, La Maman arrived, and she turned out to be a lovely lady. The proprietor spoke English and German (and French of course!) and La Maman spoke German.

Here in Alsace it seems they learn more languages than in the rest of France. It seems to be very common to speak English, and of course for historical reasons, at least people our age and up speak German very well. And older people grew up speaking the local dialect (which the rest of the French do not understand, our landlord assured us), so many actually speak four languages Amazing! I manage three well, which I confess to being rather proud of, so I am certainly in awe of these people.

We bought a box of two white Cremant (sparkling) made of Riesling och Pinot Blanc, two Grand Cru Riesling, two Gewurztraminer. Plus one bottle of Marc de Gewurztraminer for Jens. I won’t touch the stuff!

By the time we went to bed there were five more RV:s parked, but we had the best spot. So good in fact, that we decided to stay one more night, and take the bus to Colmar in the morning.

Tuesday, July 16

Of course, morning for us should be spelled morning-ish. We love long lazy mornings, and as a rule do not leave a camping site before 10 am, today being no exception. The bus stop was a convenient 150 meters away, and the trip into Colmar only took maybe twenty-five minutes. And was really cheap, 1.40 Euro per person. It would have cost quite a bit more at home!

Colmar turned out to be the role model for a picturesque town. It was also infested with tourists (I know, like us!) but somehow managed to retain some of its original prettiness anyway.

Jens was actually quite patient when I went through the shops in search of dresses ( I found two!). I naturally went inside the amazing cathedral (J stayed outside with Ivan). I am not a religious person, and I am certainly not a catholic (not because I mind them, but because you are more or less born into the Lutheran church when you are a Swede) but there is something about Catholic churches that appeals very much to me. I lit a candle as always, and my prayer was the same as every time. But that’s between me and whoever is out there.

We had a lovely lunch at a place down by the river. I had an amazing salad with warm Chevre on toast, with honey and almonds... J had a vegetarian tarte flambée (sort of like a really thin pizza, a traditional dish over here), which he said would have been even better with some Chevre.

And then back to the bus we went. Bought a couple of bottles of water on our way – we do not have access to water where we are right now, and we do need a shower in the morning so do not want to use our own water for drinking and cooking purposes right now.

Right now we are enjoying some of Monsieur Chaffar’s lovely Riesling. Had so much to eat at lunch that we won’t cook for dinner, maybe just a light salad or a sandwich. Tomorrow we plan to visit the village of Eguisheim, recommended to us by many people, not in the least by my colleague and friend Carina, a French teacher who loves l’Alsace!