Finally Moselle

What a day we've had! J wanted to go straight to the Moselle Valley, but I had heard of a little town called Bacharach by the Rhine so that's where we started.

Uphill and downhill we went, you would almost think we were in the Alps. Bacharach turned out to be just as quaint - very medieval - as promised. After lunch at a restaurant where the waiter clearly knew very little about the food (which was quite nice though) we went over the mountains again to Cochem. A lot of tourists but I wouldn't mind spending some time there. However, since J is the designated driver, we plowed on along the western brink of the Moselle to Zell/Moselle.

On our way we passed the Lorelei Cliff, where the beatiful Lorelei with her singing lured unwitting sailors to their deaths among the treacherous gravel bars. We noticed several camping grounds around the village of Sankt Goar on the opposite banks of the Rhine. Next time, maybe?

We have bought an atlas of German vineyards which enables us to stay one night for free at paticipating vineyards. Vineyard Ernst Steffens turned out to be a five-star experience. The proprietor himself showed us a good place by the river and then we proceeded to his wine keller.

We ended up buying 12 bottles, so we were totally satisfied with his wines. After that we had dinner at the restaurant he recommended (Zum Eichamt) and were absolutely delighted with our meal. Now we're back in our RV, wishing we hadn't eaten quite as much.